‘Relax and float downstream’, sang John Lennon with The Beatles in ‘Tomorrow never knows’, and in Western Samoa, amongst the friendly people, aquamarine seas and clear blues skies, that’s what you do.

Welcome or ‘Talofa’ as the Samoans say. A proud Polynesian people who sailed thousands of kilometres, navigating by stars, wind, birds and swell, without maps or compasses, to settle around 3000 years ago.

We hired an excellent small car from Motu for about $80.00 (Aud) per day and took off on our 12-day adventure.

Western Samoa is two islands. Upolu with its capital Apia, and the larger island Savaii, the third largest island in Polynesia after Hawaii and Tahiti.

A car ferry connects Upolu and Savaii and it’s wise to book ahead.

Like many pacific islanders, a belief in God, family and community binds these people in a spiritual union lost in the west. The sheer number of churches, some the size of cathedrals, is astounding.

SAVAII

The Va-i-Moana Seaside Lodge on the west coast of Savaii, is like the Garden of Eden before the Fall.

The traditional fales and cottages front the ocean, where sea breezes lull one to sleep under large white mosquito nets.

Savaii is abundant in tropical forests, brilliant bird life, sea turtles, waterfalls and more.

Go to the Afu Aau waterfall and stand under the cascading, cold clear water on a hot day. Costs 10 tala per person (about $5.00)

Stop and buy freshly cooked chook barbeque chook on the side of the road. It’s a mouth-watering Samoan speciality. The mangoes and paw paws are to die for.

On the western end of Savaii, off the beach at Falealupo, snorkel amongst neon fish as they dart around coral outcrops.

The night sky is plastered with stars, which on some nights, reflect on the pond-still sea, turning sea into stars and stars into sea.

UPOLU

Fiafia - The Fire Dance. Source: Kate Roberts.

At the Le Vasa resort on Upolu, the bungalows stretch along the coast, each with an ocean view. There’s a good outdoor restaurant (western prices), a pool and a games room for the kids.

On the south coast, picture postcard beaches with white sand run from inlet to inlet. Lalomanu beach is one of the top ten beaches in the world, although it can get windy in high season.

The To-Sua Ocean Trench or giant swimming hole, is not to be missed. The 30 metre ladder down to the swimming pool, is a small test of courage but adds to the thrill. Cost 20 tala per person.

It’s worth catching traditional dancing at a Fiafia night (happy night) at one of the big resorts in Apia. The men’s fire dances brings out the warrior spirit while the women’s dances are more professional and enchanting. In the 1800s sailors jumped ship to be with them.

Fiafia night woman. Source: Kate Roberts.

Take a tour of Robert Louis Stevenson’s house in Apia. There is an exceptional display of photographs from the late 1800s and the young female guide sings Requiem, a Stevenson poem at the end of the tour. Cost 20 tala per person.

Samoa is safe for unaccompanied women. One woman said she felt safer on the islands than in Sydney.

English is not the Samoan’s first language but most people can speak it. Learning some basic local phrases will make you popular.

Older western tourists complain the customer service is slow. That might be true but what’s the hurry when you are in paradise?

With a favourable Australian dollar compared to the local currency, and low food and accommodation prices, Samoa is primed to be the next tourist hotspot.

We flew from Sydney to Brisbane in late July. Then a five hour flight with Virgin International to Faleolo International Airport on Upolu for $750.00 per person return. The high season is July to October.