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Patagonia - Part One

Somprom Svinos

A bucket-list destination for many, Patagonia, the southernmost region of Chile and Argentina, is a vast, breathtaking landscape of snow-capped mountains, tumbling rivers, blue-tinged glaciers, and immense ice fields. Its beauty is on a scale so grand it's almost unimaginable.

This is where the towering Andes begin, merging with the Darwin Mountains to divide South America. The region’s history is one of European explorers, pioneers, and the fierce might of Mother Nature.

I began my journey in El Calafate, a town of 30,000 people in an ancient glacial valley on the shores of Argentina’s largest lake, Lago Argentino. There is little to no vegetation as far as the eye can see.

On my first day, I crossed the lake to Estancia Cristina, a pioneer ranch offering spectacular views of the Upsala Glacier. Here, I enjoyed a delicious, traditional Patagonian meal.

The next day, I visited the absolutely impressive Perito Moreno Glacier. After a boat ride across the lake, we trekked in groups of 20 over the glacier - a unique, unforgettable experience that ranks in my top five travel moments.

We then transferred to El Chaltén, the hiking capital of Argentinian Patagonia, where we spent several days exploring. This stunning region is home to Mount Fitz Roy, Laguna de Los Tres, and the Vespignani and Piedras Blancas Glaciers. Surrounded by wooded forests, blue lagoons, and running rivers, it’s also one of the windiest places I’ve ever been.

An incredibly bumpy ride took us to Lago del Desierto, a remote lake at the Chilean border, where we cruised past four hanging glaciers.

A short flight later, we arrived in Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city, often called the "End of the World." A bustling town at the base of a large mountain range, it’s the gateway for Antarctic cruises and offers a range of activities, from hiking and canoeing to historical tours.

From here we embarked on the Ventas Australis, the only cruise company that allows you access to the fjords and glaciers of Chilean Patagonia. There is no other access to this pristine environment. Passengers are the only people visiting this wild and untamed land.

Over four days, we navigated through this untouched wilderness, stopping at Cape Horn, the world’s southernmost inhabited point. Here, we saw the Albatross Monument, a tribute to over 10,000 sailors lost in these treacherous waters.

Returning back through the Beagle Channel, we explored massive glaciers, using zodiacs to reach the shore. On board naturalists joined each group to explain the history of the fjords, how the landscapes were formed and identifying the local vegetation.

Passing through the de Agostini Channel, we briefly entered the Pacific Ocean before calmer waters led us to even more glaciers—just a fraction of the 26,000 found in Patagonia.

Our final stop was Magdalena Island, home to a colony of Magellanic penguins. These comical creatures survive in a harsh environment but are absolutely fascinating to observe up close in their native habitat.

We disembarked in Punta Arenas, saying adiós to the breathtaking fjords and towering peaks of Patagonia - a truly unforgettable adventure.